THE world of fragrance has always been veiled with a sweetly-scented romance that takes us to flower fields, herb plantations and worldwide explorations to find that special scent.
It takes us into ancient perfume laboratories where perfumers mix painstakingly distilled oils to find that magic potion.
Unfortunately, that perfumed fairytale isn’t always as sweet-smelling as marketers would like us to believe.
Creating a perfume is getting more difficult and it is impossible to concoct a totally virginal scent because every plant, herb and flower has been used.
“The difference is just in the composition — what you use less or more of,” says Christopher Chong, creative director of House Of Amouage.
“If I give you a virginal scent, it would smell awful, like... burnt plastic. And who wants to wear that? Perfume houses are expected to roll out fragrances for profit, but they cannot come up with anything entirely original so they tweak here and there,” he says.
Amouage is a high-end perfume company from Oman that’s currently based in London. Chong was in Kuala Lumpur for the opening of its standalone store here, the first in Asia.
CHALLENGING TIME
To make matters worse for the industry, climate change and depletion of natural resources have taken its toll. Erratic weather means manufacturers can no longer be guaranteed of the seasonal yield.
“Last year, when we made Honour, there were shortages of jasmine and rose. India is no longer able to produce sandalwood for the industry and the best ones come from there. Sandalwood trees grow slowly and they have been over-harvested,” says Chong.
“The best agarwood (or gaharu) comes from Indonesia and the depletion of the tree pushes the prices up to the point that it can cost even more than gold. The best frankincense comes from Oman which is also facing supply issues.
“Crops are just like vegetables. With climate change, the yield and quality changes as well and that affects the scent.”
Among the companies supplying ingredients to the industry is Treatt Plc. In an article titled Global Outlook — Controlling the Uncontrollable (published in 2005 on the Treatt website), the chief executive officer of its American subsidiary, Daemmon Reeve, wrote that production may disappear from some established areas and migrate to other regions.
“(This leads) to changes in the product’s profile and the introduction of new materials or sourcing from countries that previously had no essential oil industry.”
A LITTLE HELP
To address environmental concerns, man-made scents came into the picture.
Chong says that even Grasse, the bastion of plants for perfumes, undertakes synthetic explorations to manage over-harvesting and to counter crop shortages.
“Everyone uses man-made ingredients in their perfumes, maybe not all... but they just don’t tell you that,” says Chong who was trained as an opera singer.
He adds that Amouage uses 20 per cent concentrate in its EDP. Its latest fragrance, Interlude, has 22.5 per cent concentrate for women and 25 per cent for men.
The quality of synthetic scents, like musk and amber, for instance, differ greatly according to price, quality and manufacturer.
Take rose essential oils, for example. The best are oils distilled from just petals, from a certain type of rose that blooms at a certain time. Inferior ones include the stem and and leaves in the process.
“Our man-made products are of top quality and we mix it equally with natural oils so the end product isn’t compromised,” says Chong. “We try to find a balance. There is commerce, quality and respect for nature that we have to consider.”
HEALTH CONCERNS
As if climate change is not enough, the fragrance industry is also plagued by regulations, especially in the European Union, where most well-known perfume houses are based. Every company is subjected to stringent regulations in its perfume composition.
Read more: Romancing reality - Style - New Straits Times http://www.nst.com.my/life-times/style/romancing-reality-1.112185#ixzz2QQIEcv00
Sunday, April 14, 2013
Saturday, March 9, 2013
National Seminar and Agarwood Exhibition 2012
BUKIT JALIL, Dec. 18 – The recent National Seminar and Agarwood Exhibition 2012 discussed the latest developments in the cultivation methods and stimulation of resin production for farm operators and the agarwood industry.
Chairman of the Seminar and Exhibition, Assoc. Professor, Dr. Hamami Sahri said the seminar was an excellent platform for participants to learn new methods of grading, oil processing, marketing and promotional practices for the agarwood industry in Malaysia.
“A total of 24 experts from academia, the agarwood industry, representatives of government departments, leaders of organizations, farm operators and users of the gaharu products presented papers," he said.
The seminar is a follow-up on the Agarwood Seminar and Exhibition 2010 that was held two years ago.
UPM Vice Chancellor, Dato 'Ir. Dr. Radin Umar Radin Sohadi said that the supply of agarwood which produces gaharu is dwindling and threatened with extinction especially with the increasie in demand by importing countries.
"If there are no efforts made to replant, Malaysia may cease to be an exporter of high value agarwood to the countries in the Middle East, Taiwan and Japan.
"The replanting of this species should be done to avoid extinction due to widespread and indiscriminate harvesting of agarwood.
Chairman of Landscape Malaysia, Tun Jeane Abdullah, also presented a working paper entitled “Aquilaria Tree Resource Management, Policy, Market and Industry Promotion of Sandalwood Products and Sandalwood Innovation and Technology” at the seminar.
From UPM
Chairman of the Seminar and Exhibition, Assoc. Professor, Dr. Hamami Sahri said the seminar was an excellent platform for participants to learn new methods of grading, oil processing, marketing and promotional practices for the agarwood industry in Malaysia.
“A total of 24 experts from academia, the agarwood industry, representatives of government departments, leaders of organizations, farm operators and users of the gaharu products presented papers," he said.
The seminar is a follow-up on the Agarwood Seminar and Exhibition 2010 that was held two years ago.
UPM Vice Chancellor, Dato 'Ir. Dr. Radin Umar Radin Sohadi said that the supply of agarwood which produces gaharu is dwindling and threatened with extinction especially with the increasie in demand by importing countries.
"If there are no efforts made to replant, Malaysia may cease to be an exporter of high value agarwood to the countries in the Middle East, Taiwan and Japan.
"The replanting of this species should be done to avoid extinction due to widespread and indiscriminate harvesting of agarwood.
Chairman of Landscape Malaysia, Tun Jeane Abdullah, also presented a working paper entitled “Aquilaria Tree Resource Management, Policy, Market and Industry Promotion of Sandalwood Products and Sandalwood Innovation and Technology” at the seminar.
From UPM
Thursday, February 14, 2013
Gaharu by Dr Eli
KUCHING: The 18/20 Point Malaysia Agreement must be defended as political legacy for both Sabah and Sarawak, said Borneo Heritage Foundation chairman Datuk Dr Jeffery Kitingan.
“If we don’t defend it as legacy, we and our future generations will lose. It is an important political legacy,” he said at the soft launching of Borneo Legacies Centre at Taman BDC Stampin here last Sunday night.
Jeffery, also United Borneo Front (UBF) chairman, was referring to the 18 points agreement (Malaya/Sarawak) and 20 points agreement (Sabah /Malaya) signed before September 16, 1963 – the official date Malaysia was formed.
According to him, Sabah has lost most of the 20 points after Umno came to the state and decisions are made by Kuala Lumpur which makes Sabah treated like a colony and not an equal partner in Malaysia.
“You (Sarawak) are still very lucky. So, don’t lose it,” he said. He also pointed out there was nothing sensitive anymore about the points in 18/20 Agreement, because everybody knew about it and had the means to know it.
The Borneo Legacies Centre owner Dr Elli Luhat said the 18/20 Agreement was one of the documents to be showcased there.
“To me, it’s a legacy signed by the country’s forefathers. If we don’t preserve it, it will be gone someday. If we don’t do this, I don’t think my children and grandchildren will know about it,” he said.
The centre is located at Lasan Denak, Lorong B4 Taman BDC which is also the house of Elli, chairman of DLT Group of Companies.
Elli also said the centre aims to preserve the ‘empurau’ fish, and ‘gaharu’ (agarwood), ‘belian’ (Borneo Ironwood) and rubber trees which he regarded as the indigenous fauna and flora of Borneo.
He pointed out the rearing of empurau, and planting of gaharu, belian and rubber trees can uplift the socio-economy of the Dayaks.
On another matter, he also informed the audience that his term as member of the Malaysia Rubber Board (LGM) which recently expired was not renewed.
Read more: http://www.theborneopost.com/2012/07/24/malaysia-agreement-a-political-legacy-jeffery-kitingan/#ixzz2KsuFiadJ
“If we don’t defend it as legacy, we and our future generations will lose. It is an important political legacy,” he said at the soft launching of Borneo Legacies Centre at Taman BDC Stampin here last Sunday night.
Jeffery, also United Borneo Front (UBF) chairman, was referring to the 18 points agreement (Malaya/Sarawak) and 20 points agreement (Sabah /Malaya) signed before September 16, 1963 – the official date Malaysia was formed.
According to him, Sabah has lost most of the 20 points after Umno came to the state and decisions are made by Kuala Lumpur which makes Sabah treated like a colony and not an equal partner in Malaysia.
“You (Sarawak) are still very lucky. So, don’t lose it,” he said. He also pointed out there was nothing sensitive anymore about the points in 18/20 Agreement, because everybody knew about it and had the means to know it.
The Borneo Legacies Centre owner Dr Elli Luhat said the 18/20 Agreement was one of the documents to be showcased there.
“To me, it’s a legacy signed by the country’s forefathers. If we don’t preserve it, it will be gone someday. If we don’t do this, I don’t think my children and grandchildren will know about it,” he said.
The centre is located at Lasan Denak, Lorong B4 Taman BDC which is also the house of Elli, chairman of DLT Group of Companies.
Elli also said the centre aims to preserve the ‘empurau’ fish, and ‘gaharu’ (agarwood), ‘belian’ (Borneo Ironwood) and rubber trees which he regarded as the indigenous fauna and flora of Borneo.
He pointed out the rearing of empurau, and planting of gaharu, belian and rubber trees can uplift the socio-economy of the Dayaks.
On another matter, he also informed the audience that his term as member of the Malaysia Rubber Board (LGM) which recently expired was not renewed.
Read more: http://www.theborneopost.com/2012/07/24/malaysia-agreement-a-political-legacy-jeffery-kitingan/#ixzz2KsuFiadJ
Monday, February 4, 2013
Gaharu Integration With Oil Palm
I had planted 10 gaharu trees in between my 4 years old oil palm. The integration started quite well.
Gaharu or agarwood (aloeswood, eaglewood) is a resinous, fragrant and highly valuable heartwood of Aquilaria species from the Thymelaeceae family. There are altogether 16 species of Aquilaria. The different species was found in different country.
However, the best known species that produce the gaharu resin are Aquilaria malaccensis and Aquilaria crassna. A. crassna is an evergreen tree of medium-size and can reach to a height of 15- 20m and a diameter at breast height of 40-50cm [1].
Gaharu or agarwood (aloeswood, eaglewood) is a resinous, fragrant and highly valuable heartwood of Aquilaria species from the Thymelaeceae family. There are altogether 16 species of Aquilaria. The different species was found in different country.
However, the best known species that produce the gaharu resin are Aquilaria malaccensis and Aquilaria crassna. A. crassna is an evergreen tree of medium-size and can reach to a height of 15- 20m and a diameter at breast height of 40-50cm [1].
Wednesday, January 30, 2013
Gaharu Products
Gaharu Products (Produk produk gaharu)
Gaharu resin, oil and even gaharu woodchip can be turned into the following products:
1. Pure Agarwood Oil
2. Agarwood Chips
3. Agarwood Piece
4. Agarwood Chunk
5. Agarwood Crushing
6. Agarwood Stuffing
7. Agarwood Incense
8. Agarwood Tea
9. Agarwood Perfume
10. Agarwood Soap
11. Agarwood Lotion
12. Agarwood Cream
13. Agarwood Lip Balm
14. Agarwood Candle
15. Agarwood Shampoo
16. Agarwood Conditioner
Gaharu resin, oil and even gaharu woodchip can be turned into the following products:
1. Pure Agarwood Oil
2. Agarwood Chips
3. Agarwood Piece
4. Agarwood Chunk
5. Agarwood Crushing
6. Agarwood Stuffing
7. Agarwood Incense
8. Agarwood Tea
9. Agarwood Perfume
10. Agarwood Soap
11. Agarwood Lotion
12. Agarwood Cream
13. Agarwood Lip Balm
14. Agarwood Candle
15. Agarwood Shampoo
16. Agarwood Conditioner
Sunday, January 27, 2013
How much You can sell your Gaharu?
Agarwood Prices - Harga Gaharu
Agarwood Grade (Gred Gaharu) Origin (Tempat Asal) Price (Harga) Remark (Nota)
Supergrade Gaharu Sarawak RM9,000/kg Jun 2006, source: Malaysian-German Forestry Education Project
Grade A West Malaysia RM1,000/kg 1985, source: FRIM/UPM
Grade A West Malaysia RM14,000/kg 2008, source: FRIM/UPM
Agarwood Grade (Gred Gaharu) Origin (Tempat Asal) Price (Harga) Remark (Nota)
Supergrade Gaharu Sarawak RM9,000/kg Jun 2006, source: Malaysian-German Forestry Education Project
Grade A West Malaysia RM1,000/kg 1985, source: FRIM/UPM
Grade A West Malaysia RM14,000/kg 2008, source: FRIM/UPM
Wednesday, January 23, 2013
Gaharu Oil For Prince William Perfume
Gaharu and the British royal family don't have anything in common until recently. But with Prince William wedding coming very soon, famous perfumer Kim Weisswange has been tasked to create a new royal fragrances specially for Prince William. And one of the ingredient is Agarwood or Gaharu.
Gaharu dan keluarga raja Inggris tidak memiliki kesamaan apa pun sampai saat ini. Tetapi dengan pernikahan Pangeran William, parfumis terkenal Kim Weisswange telah ditugaskan untuk membuat wewangian baru khusus untuk Pangeran William. Dan salah satu bahan yang digunakan adalah minyak Gaharu.
Read the article below.
Wedding perfumes fit for a princess and a prince
Kim Weisswange counts the likes of Madonna, Pierce Brosnan, Vivienne Westwood and even Britain's Prince Charles among her illustrious clients - but the Hamburg perfumer admits she was still completely shocked to be asked to create a fragrance as a present for the wedding of Prince William and his fiance Kate Middleton.
"My heart nearly stopped beating when we got the call from the royal family," the 47-year-old says with a smile.
Weisswange, who was born in South Africa before moving to Germany, has over 20 years of experience in the industry and has decided on a clear and powerful scent characteristic of English lavender for Prince William.
Kate's perfume, on the other hand, will be warm and sensual, combining rose and magnolia essence for a more restrained fragrance.
"The scents should underline the pair's character and personality," says Weisswange.
The perfumer came to the British royal family's attention when Prince Charles noticed the scent she created for the wedding of another member of the nobility.
An order was subsequently received from a member of the British royal family for three fragrances on the occasion of the Queen's 80th birthday in 2006.
The family member, who Weisswange refuses to name, has now commissioned fragrances for William and Kate's wedding at Westminster Abbey on April 29.
Wedding scents are a speciality of Weisswange, who has also created perfumes for Flavio Briatore and Elisabetta Gregoraci.
It's important that the fragrances not only fit each person individually but that they are in harmony with each other, she explains.
Every detail of the upcoming wedding is being kept a closely guarded secret but as the perfumes are presents from a family member, Weisswange is allowed to discuss her creations.
Buckingham Palace, meanwhile, refused to confirm whether the perfumes would be used on the day, adding that it was unlikely as there is no official commission for royal wedding perfumes.
Weisswange went to university in the northern German city of Kiel before moving to Los Angeles in the 1980s where she trained to become a perfumer.
But it was while working as a make-up artist for Glenn Close on the set of The House of Spirits that her reputation for creating unique scents began to grow in Hollywood.
Although she has many elite clients and recently sold one perfume to a Chinese businessman for 50,000 euros (72,000 dollars), Weisswange also makes more affordable scents, including an eau de toilette that retails at 145 euros a bottle.
Weisswange operates with Hamburg company Capital Cosmetics and has been working on the royal fragrances for around seven weeks, mixing over 90 ingredients together in the laboratory.
The scents are appropriately named William and Catherine and come in respectively sleek black and white atomisers.
Prince William's scent is a combination of Norfolk lavender and agarwood, with the top-note affected by bergamot.
"It is dynamic and clear, a sporty and direct fragrance," says Weisswange.
Kate's is a softer rose and magnolia perfume with the rose essence used in memory of Princess Diana.
Not surprisingly, Weisswange refuses to reveal how much the royal family member is paying for the two fragrances.
"But I have to admit that in this instance it's more about the honour than the money," she says.
-- Courtesy of TimesLIVE. The contents was extracted from TimesLIVE archives dated Apr 2011.
Gaharu dan keluarga raja Inggris tidak memiliki kesamaan apa pun sampai saat ini. Tetapi dengan pernikahan Pangeran William, parfumis terkenal Kim Weisswange telah ditugaskan untuk membuat wewangian baru khusus untuk Pangeran William. Dan salah satu bahan yang digunakan adalah minyak Gaharu.
Read the article below.
Wedding perfumes fit for a princess and a prince
Kim Weisswange counts the likes of Madonna, Pierce Brosnan, Vivienne Westwood and even Britain's Prince Charles among her illustrious clients - but the Hamburg perfumer admits she was still completely shocked to be asked to create a fragrance as a present for the wedding of Prince William and his fiance Kate Middleton.
"My heart nearly stopped beating when we got the call from the royal family," the 47-year-old says with a smile.
Weisswange, who was born in South Africa before moving to Germany, has over 20 years of experience in the industry and has decided on a clear and powerful scent characteristic of English lavender for Prince William.
Kate's perfume, on the other hand, will be warm and sensual, combining rose and magnolia essence for a more restrained fragrance.
"The scents should underline the pair's character and personality," says Weisswange.
The perfumer came to the British royal family's attention when Prince Charles noticed the scent she created for the wedding of another member of the nobility.
An order was subsequently received from a member of the British royal family for three fragrances on the occasion of the Queen's 80th birthday in 2006.
The family member, who Weisswange refuses to name, has now commissioned fragrances for William and Kate's wedding at Westminster Abbey on April 29.
Wedding scents are a speciality of Weisswange, who has also created perfumes for Flavio Briatore and Elisabetta Gregoraci.
It's important that the fragrances not only fit each person individually but that they are in harmony with each other, she explains.
Every detail of the upcoming wedding is being kept a closely guarded secret but as the perfumes are presents from a family member, Weisswange is allowed to discuss her creations.
Buckingham Palace, meanwhile, refused to confirm whether the perfumes would be used on the day, adding that it was unlikely as there is no official commission for royal wedding perfumes.
Weisswange went to university in the northern German city of Kiel before moving to Los Angeles in the 1980s where she trained to become a perfumer.
But it was while working as a make-up artist for Glenn Close on the set of The House of Spirits that her reputation for creating unique scents began to grow in Hollywood.
Although she has many elite clients and recently sold one perfume to a Chinese businessman for 50,000 euros (72,000 dollars), Weisswange also makes more affordable scents, including an eau de toilette that retails at 145 euros a bottle.
Weisswange operates with Hamburg company Capital Cosmetics and has been working on the royal fragrances for around seven weeks, mixing over 90 ingredients together in the laboratory.
The scents are appropriately named William and Catherine and come in respectively sleek black and white atomisers.
Prince William's scent is a combination of Norfolk lavender and agarwood, with the top-note affected by bergamot.
"It is dynamic and clear, a sporty and direct fragrance," says Weisswange.
Kate's is a softer rose and magnolia perfume with the rose essence used in memory of Princess Diana.
Not surprisingly, Weisswange refuses to reveal how much the royal family member is paying for the two fragrances.
"But I have to admit that in this instance it's more about the honour than the money," she says.
-- Courtesy of TimesLIVE. The contents was extracted from TimesLIVE archives dated Apr 2011.
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